Everything you need to know about Camper Van Windows

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Fixed Windows

Fixed windows are primarily used for light and to make your space feel bigger. Since they don’t open, you won’t get any additional airflow. They are the cheapest window options and are most popularly installed on rear windows. The benefit of fixed windows is that they make your space feel larger with a small investment! Our rear windows were only $200 a piece, plus materials and labor – what a steal!

Sliding Windows

Sliding windows will be the next level up in your windows from fixed windows, both in complexity and cost. They will have a similar sizing to traditional windows but will have a slider that allows airflow. These are quite a bit more expensive, almost double the price of the fixed windows, but that airflow is critical to staying comfortable in your vehicle.

We have sliding windows in our flares and our forward windows on the side of our van. We decided to up put sliders in matching sides of the van, forward driver side and passenger side sliding door, to allow for a cross breeze. Having this cross breeze is crucial to how we plan on staying comfortable in our van in addition to our air conditioner and multiple fans. Any time we have a natural breeze, it will mean less time than we need to rely on power.

T-Vent or Awning-Style Windows

The final type of van window is an t-vent windows or awning-style windows. These typically have a window that pivots upward, allowing for even more airflow than a slider window; however, that is not the main selling point.

The crucial factor for opening windows is that they can be opened while it’s raining! Sliding windows will get water into your van while it’s raining, but since awning-style opening windows protects the opening from the water, you can keep them running non-stop.

These windows will be the most expensive, and the built-in hardware can impact your views.

How much do Camper Van Windows Cost?

We love financial transparency so others can understand the costs and expenses. We bought four of six of our van windows from Campervan HQ. Our rear two windows were less expensive than our forward two windows because they were not operable, whereas our forward windows both have sliders with screens. Here are the expenses for the windows and materials (the expense of general tools is not included):

For more information on our Flare windows, check out our Flarespace post! We’ll be sharing the total cost of our luxury DIY van build when we’re finished building, so be sure to join our email list to be the first to know when we share that.

Where to buy Camper Van Windows

You’ll want to order your van windows from a reputable source, like Campervan-HQ (where we bought all our windows and installation supplies). They come securely wrapped in foam; you can also buy all the necessary components, like the adhesive, primer, and trim (for both brands: AM Auto and VWD). Some important facets to look into when ordering windows (or any van component for that matter):

1. Shipping: Sometimes shipping costs can be extremely high!
2. Return policy: if you change your mind and want to return your windows, you may have to pay a restocking fee.
3. Time for shipping: A reputable company like Campervan-HQ will most likely have your windows in stock and be able to ship them within a week!

How to Install Van Windows

We installed six different windows in our van, and 4 large ones installed the traditional way. We’re going through that process below!

If you have a window with a gasket and screws (like our two Flarespace half-slider windows), then the installation is a little bit easier. You’ll follow steps 1-4 the same way, and then, instead of gluing, you’ll compress the window into the hole and use a drill with a trim ring to finish your window. If you want a breakdown of that process, comment below, and we’ll add related information.

The required tools for installing van windows

First off, you’ll need to make sure you have all the required tools. We list here what we used each tool for, so if you have a slight variation but serves the same purpose then you shouldn’t need to buy a new tool!

Step 2: Prep your work area for containing metal shavings

Metal shavings get everywhere while cutting into your Sprinter van. You’ll want to try to keep your space as neat and tidy as possible so your clean-up is not too terrible. When we cut our rear windows, we had shavings all the way in the front of our van, so don’t underestimate where they will go!

Using painter’s plastic with tape was the best way to capture most of our metal shavings. We did this on the inside and outside of the van because the metal shavings are hot. You won’t want them melting any more fragile portions of your van.

We installed our forward windows after installing our floor, so we had to take extra precautions! Along with the painter’s plastic, as before, we extended that out to cover the entirety of the van. Making a little enclosure out of plastic was time-consuming but worth it, considering the ramifications if we let hot metal shavings on our lovely floor!

Step 3: Cut the window hole

Now for the fun part, cutting out the hole on your van! This part is largely dependent on the tools you have, with the right tools, its simple! We didn’t exactly have the perfect tools for the job, but we had normal tools we repurposed for this and it worked fine.

1. Use your power drill and step bit to drill a circle as close to the edge as possible large enough for your jigsaw blade to go through.
2. Drill holes circling all curved sections as well as a couple along the straight sections. We drilled about 12 holes. This gives you many good entry points for your jigsaw, considering some areas you won’t be able to reach with the surrounding metal. Just get as close as possible to make later steps easier.
3. Use your jigsaw to connect the dots. Before clipping the final piece of metal, tape your metal panel to the van such that it doesn’t fall and scratch your vehicle when it’s no longer connected. (shown in the fourth photo below)
4. Remove the metal panel and use your multi-tool to get closer to the edge on any large pieces of metal remaining in the cutout.
5. Use a grinder to get any sections flush. It works best with 1/4” or less of metal visible. You’re literally sanding away the metal, so with less metal to work with, you’ll use less sandpaper and fling less debris around!

With these steps, you’ll have a very clean cut-out for your window!

Step 4: Clean the cutout

Next up you’ll need to clean the fresh cut. We do this by first deburring the edges with a deburring tool. This removes any small pieces of metal that are pointing out. Next we apply anti-rust paint to the edge and allow that to dry.

Step 5: Prepare for adhesion

Before we glue on the windows, we must thoroughly prepare the van surfaces for the final step. This is crucial, as once you start adhering to your windows, you have to finish. The first thing you’ll need to add is your trim lock if that is part of your installation.

The trim lock makes your window look professional from the inside and out and is very simple to install. You’ll start from the bottom and slowly press it over the painted edge.

After you have your trim installed, clean the van surface where you will be adhering the window with isopropyl alcohol, and add some tape above the window to keep it affixed while curing. The adhesive itself will keep the window attached; the tape is just for a little bit of force, ensuring the window does not sag.

Finally, put your window suction holder on your window and have it in an accessible location.

Step 6: Install the Window

The first step for installing your window will be the primer. We painted it maximum 1 1/2 inches away from the trim edge. In some locations due to the van shape, we had less room and painted it right next to the trim, but mostly kept it at the proper distance away.

Then using an electric caulk gun, we cut a pizza notch into the adhesive sealant and laid a consistent bead around the entire window.

You may wonder if an electric caulk gun was needed, or if a normal caulk gun would work. We tried it with a normal caulk gun first and found that it was very difficult to keep a consistent bead. We ended up messing up the window with that caulk gun application and had to re-install the window. While the tool was expensive, we felt it absolutely worth it!

See below for more details on how we un-installed and re-installed that window.

After you have your bead on top of the primer, fully around your window, you’ll align your window and press it into the adhesive. This is the most important and challenging part of the install so take your time and align it with the other edges on your van the first time.

You can move it around slightly, but if you move the window around a lot, you may have leaks. Roll down your tape from above and give yourself a high-five—you did it!

Step 7: Water test

Wait 24 hours before you test your windows for leaks. Test each edge of your window using a hose and a powerful spray. You’ll want to find any possible leaks now instead of later when you’ve built your van around it!

How to fix leaky camper van windows

While water testing is a great way to find leaks, another tried and true method is light. Using a flashlight from outside the van, shine it along the edge of your window at night. If you see any pinholes in your van, you have a leak.

Fixing a pin-hole leak

If you just have a small pinhole leak, that can be fixed! Depending on how accessible it is, you can use a cracks sealant product to fix it or manually apply more sealant yourself. Just make sure you tape as much as possible so you don’t get this adhesive on your nice van window!

Fixing a larger leak

For anything greater than a single pin-hole leak, you’ll need to remove your window and re-apply the sealant. If you’re at home, it’s very DIY-friendly; however, if you’re out and about, you may just want to pay an auto shop to take care of it. We’ve heard it’s a relatively cheap fix, roughly $100 USD. We’d recommend calling around to get some quotes before tackling the project.

We were very downtrodden when our first window leaked and we had to remove it. All the unknowns challenging to push through, however, at the end of the day we got it done and now we can share it with you!

Firstly, you’ll need the right tools. Buy braided sealant cutting wire from Amazon. This stuff is required! Secondly, get some plastic scrapers so you can remove the existing sealant without scratching your nice van.

To remove your window, you’ll need a second person. Have one person cut through a corner of the sealant with the braided wire, and then with one person inside and one person outside, gently rock the braided wire back and forth to cut the sealant. It doesn’t require a lot of force and if you do it a different way you may damage your van! Take it slow and methodically and remove the window. It shouldn’t take more than 20-30 minutes to completely remove it (although it took us 3 hours our first time since we didn’t follow this step).

After your window is removed, we need to remove all the existing sealant. Plastic and metal scrapers work great along with mineral spirits. Just make sure to test it on an unseen portion of your window before you make some scratches you can’t take back.

Finally, now that your window is off and clear, try and understand what went wrong in your first try, and try again. Was the sealant to thin? Did the sealant bend or lean when arranging the position of the window? Good luck!

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