Smith Island, MD – Everything You Need to Know to Plan Your Trip

Smith Island MD is the last inhabited island in Maryland. It is slowly disappearing into the Chesapeake Bay, both from rising sea levels and the erosion of its sand foundation. It is estimated that without intervention, the Island will be mostly gone by 2050. We visited Smith Island on the last weekend of May while boating America’s Great Loop, and were enamored with the history and culture of the island. Here’s everything we learned about Smith Island and our Ultimate Guide for your travel.

The History and Culture of Smith Island

Smith Island was initially charted by the famous explorer John Smith but was named after early settler Henry Smith. Early British settlers arrived from Cornwall and Wales in the 17th century, and the population peaked at ~800 in the 1900s. Roughly 250 people live on the island today.

Smith Island is actually a collection of smaller island towns with Ewell being the largest (the town we visited), connected to Rhodes Point and then by water to the other community Tylerton.

You may wonder why people decide to still live on Smith Island when there’s little to no cell service, you can count the number of shops on one hand, the bugs are ever present from the surrounding marshland, and the island most likely won’t exist by 2100… and the reason is community.

Life on Smith Island has modernized over the centuries, however, much has remained consistent through generations. Whether from livelihoods depending on the Chesapeake Bay as watermen or baking the official state dessert of Smith Island Cake since the 1800s, the culture and community keep residents fighting for the island. Awesomely, you can even hear Smith Islanders, as their accents are unique in the United States. Their accents are markers of their Cornish and Welsh ancestry, so you’ll do a double-take with your first conversation!

Why you should visit Smith Island

Jennifer and I travel for many reasons, but we especially love unique destinations. Smith Island is unique in the US, and, importantly, it won’t be around much longer. A rising sea level of just one foot will be enough to destroy the island without serious intervention.

Visiting Smith Island will share a unique way of life going back generations. You’ll be able to eat some local delicacies like the famous soft-shelled crab of the Eastern Shore and the famous layered Smith Island Cake. You can experience a slower way of life on Smith Island; There’s no traffic, and stores close early, all in the majestic Chesapeake Bay.

How to get to Smith Island

Smith Island is only accessible by boat, as there are no bridges that cross the 10 miles through Tangier Sound. Most people take a ferry to Smith Island, and you have a few options.

From the Western Shore of the Chesapeake, there’s only one option. Smith Island Cruises depart from Point Lookout State Park, Maryland Thursday through Sunday during the Summer at 10:30am.

Most people travel to Smith Island from the Eastern Shore of Maryland, from a town called Crisfield.

See two amazing towns in one trip, check out our Ultimate Guide to Crisfield!

All boats from Crisfield depart at 12:30 pm, and there are 3 options. One large tour boat and 2 smaller passenger ferries. The tour and one passenger ferry go to Ewell, and one passenger ferry goes to Tylerton. Check the official site at smithisland.org to find the latest information. We recommend taking the ferry if you are staying more than one night and the tour boat if all you have is one afternoon.

The ferry takes roughly 45 minutes. We recommend giving the captains a call, bringing enough cash for your return trip, and asking when the captains plan on coming back to Crisfield. You wouldn’t want to accidentally get stranded on Smith Island just because the ferries only run once daily! Although, there are worse places to be stranded…

Most tourists will drive to Crisfield and hop on the ferry to Smith Island, but that leaves the question of where to leave your car in Crisfield safely! Primarily, we recommend calling the ferry captain you’re planning on taking and asking them for the latest information. Otherwise, we recommend parking at the Lumber building on 11th and Broad Street. It’s $3.00 per night. Crisfield is a small town and generally a safe place to leave your car, although practice good street smarts and ensure you don’t leave any valuables inside.

Where to stay on Smith Island

Suffice to say, you won’t find a Hilton on Smith Island! The best places to stay on the island are at a homestay like Vrbo, or one of the local cottages. You get the authentic local experience, which is part of the charm of Smith Island.

Their are a few pieces you need to ensure when booking a place on Smith Island. The first is, which community is it located on Smith Island. You wouldn’t want to book a place in Tylerton when your ferry lands in Ewell, or vice-versa!

Secondly, we recommend ensuring your place includes a way to get out on the water. Many homes will include Kayaks for touring the local environment. Just North of Ewell is the Martin National Wildlife Refuge. The wildlife refuge is closed to the public, so you won’t be able to kayak through it, but just exploring the area will show you incredible wildlife diversity.

There is only so much to do within these small communities on Smith Island, so the more you can get out onto the Bay, the more you’ll understand why Smith Islanders are fighting to preserve their homes.

Thirdly, you shouldn’t expect any cell service on the island so make sure your place has WiFi if you need to stay connected. Don’t expect the WiFi to be strong too, it is an island in the Chesapeake Bay after all!

The Smith Island Inn is a great place for families and one of the most popular places to stay in Ewell.

Another option in Ewell is the Smith Island Motel (which seems a bit ironic as you won’t be motoring to the hotel). You’ll get an authentic experience as the hosts, Dory and Allan, share what makes the Island special.

What to eat on Smith Island

You must try three delicacies on Smith Island: soft-shelled crab, Smith Island Cake, and any local catch!

Soft-shelled Crab

If you haven’t heard of soft-shelled crab, here’s the gist. Essentially, the waterman catches crabs and keeps them in climate-controlled tanks. They monitor the crabs closely, and just after they molt, they remove them so they have a soft outer shell. Amazing, right? So, soft-shell crabs are the same thing as hard-shell crabs, just harvested at precisely the right moment!

You can eat the complete soft-shell crab (except for parts like the gills). You do not need to crack open a shell or anything. Smith Island is the premier place to buy soft-shelled crab, so you shouldn’t leave without trying one! You can find soft-shelled crab, crab cakes, and more at The Bayside Inn (aka Smith Island Store) or Harbour Side Grocery! We personally enjoyed them from Harbour Side Grocery and really enjoyed them.

Smith Island Cake

Smith Island Cake is the official state dessert of Maryland. Created in the 1800s, Smith Island Cake is a seven-layer cake, with icing spread between each layer and on the outside of the cake. The story of Smith Island Cake further reinforces why tourists flock to visit Smith Island in general, as well as their values and history.

Smith Island Cake was created for the watermen as they left onto the bay, sometimes to return a week later. Traditional Smith Island Cake did not have butter; the frosting was just sugar and chocolate, meaning it didn’t have to be refrigerated. The reason for the layers is still a bit of a mystery. The most popular answer is that, since Smith Island didn’t have electricity until the 1950s, residents had trouble getting a cake to rise in wood ovens. Hence, Smith Islanders decided to make multiple smaller cake layers, leading to the layered decadence of today. The other popular idea is that the number of layers was a point of friendly competition between the watermen’s wives!

You can find Smith Island Cake in most residences on the island, but we recommend going to the Smith Island Baking Company, located in Ewell. They are the only company selling Smith Island Cakes on the island, and they are super kind people. When we had our emergency (read below), they watched our dog for the night, and no questions were asked! You can also order their cakes online from https://smithislandbakeryllc.com/. Make sure to call ahead to find out their hours of operation!

Anything Seafood

Outside of the soft-shelled crab, seafood is king on the Chesapeake Bay. The most famous fish in the Chesapeake Bay is the Striped Bass (Rockfish), so if you have the opportunity to try this local catch, go for it.

When to visit Smith Island

The best time to visit Smith Island is in the Summer, from May until Labor Day. Most tourist companies are open, and the ferries often run twice daily, allowing you to explore Smith Island on a day trip.

It’s quite warm in Maryland in the Summer, although there are some bay breezes to keep you cool. We recommend packing SPF long-sleeved sun shirts so you can a) be sun-safe and b) be bug-safe! Regardless of when you go to Smith Island, bring bug repellent from the mainland.

How long to stay on Smith Island

With only 2.3 miles end to end from the outskirts of Ewell to the outskirts of Rhodes Point, you don’t need much time to see everything on Smith Island. If you only have one day, you can still enjoy Smith Island and get a cursory overview of what makes the Island special.

However, getting back to what makes Smith Island so unique and worth traveling to, you’ll want at least two nights to get a slice of life on Smith Island. Here’s a sample dream itinerary for your visit to Smith Island:

Day 1 – Arrive to Smith Island

Drive to Crisfield, Maryland, and ensure you are parked by noon or at least 30 minutes before the Ferry’s departure. We asked Captain Otis if he ever holds up the boat, and he said he wouldn’t hold the boat for his grandmother, so they run a tight schedule! Hop on the 12:30 ferry and arrive in Crisfield by 1:15 pm. Check into your Bed and Breakfast and return to The Bayside Inn as they close at 4 or 6 pm (depending on the day). Finally, enjoy a beautiful sunset over the Chesapeake Bay.

Day 2 – Just “Be” in Smith Island

Enjoy the sunrise over the Chesapeake Bay and grab coffee and pastries from Smith Island Baking Company or eat at your Bed and Breakfast. Take your kayaks out for a kayak tour around the marshlands bordering Smith Island.

Another option is to Kayak or boat to Swan Island (north on this map) and enjoy a private beach! If you are into fishing too, there are fishing charters available.

The rest of your full day on Smith Island should be based on the people that make Smith Island special. Perhaps your hosts invite you to a family dinner, maybe there is a bonfire where a few locals are sitting around the fire, or even talking with the local watermen as they bring their catches back to the mainland. If you have some spare time, you don’t want to miss the Smith Island Cultural Center. Enjoy your last sunset over the Chesapeake Bay as you think about this beautiful trip.

Day 3 – Head back to the mainland

Most of the ferries leave at 7:30 am, bright and early. This gets you back on the mainland around 8:15 am and time to make it back home before the evening.

Boaters Guide to Smith Island

We visited Smith Island both by ferry and by our boat, so here’s everything you need to know about visiting Smith Island on your boat. This is targeted to boats that you stay overnight in, and if you are traveling in a smaller boat, we recommend asking the local VRBOs like this one if they have a dock available!

How to Approach Smith Island

Smith Island has a lot of shoaling, but crab boats drawing 4.5 feet transit in and out every single day so you will be able to as well! If you draw more than 4.5 feet, you’ll only be able to get in at higher tides, and you may be sitting on the bottom at low, so keep that in mind. Call the local marina ahead of time to ask for any local knowledge and tips for approaching.

Smith Island has two channels, one from the East and one from the West. We approached from the West in our trawler, drawing 3.5 feet and had plenty of water, while the ferries from Crisfield (much larger) approached from the East. We chose the Western approach because there was less distance to Ewell. The Eastern approach has a few more twists and turns. We recommend staying in the center of the channel where possible and approaching on a rising tide.

Download the free Waterway Guide App to locate marinas, services, anchorages, free docks, navigation alerts, bridges, locks, and more!

Where to Dock on Smith Island

There are two places to dock on Smith Island. Smith Island Bakery and 3 Knots Marine. Call ahead if you expect water and power, as these are no-frills places to tie up your boat. Here is 3 Knots Marine’s website with all their contact information. The locals are incredibly kind and will do their best to ensure you have a great stay. Kathy at Smith Island Baking Company ran an electrical cord from the bakery to our boat giving us 15A power and a hose we could refill our water tanks. It was perfect for us and a great launching point for exploring Smith Island.

Where to Anchor around Smith Island

Unfortunately, since Smith Island is surrounded by shallow water, there are no viable anchorages close enough to dinghy over to It. If you need to anchor, we recommend anchoring in Crisfield Harbor and catching the ferry to Smith Island.

Check out our Great Loop Anchorages and Free Docks Spreadsheet with 600+ anchorages!

Internet on Smith Island

There is only a Verizon tower on Smith Island; even with it, there is very little cell service. We recommend StarLink Internet, which will have fast service on Smith Island.

Check out our blog post on Boat Internet!

Provisioning and Hardware Stores

Smith Island has only 200 residents and has everything shipped from the mainland on daily ferries, so don’t expect much in the way of provisioning or hardware stores. If you need a few things, you can see if Harbour Side Grocery has them; otherwise, it’s best to provision on the mainland!

Our Smith Island Disaster (explained)

We had a unique, even by Smith Island standards, experience when we visited.

We stayed at the Smith Island Bakery dock while first attempting America’s Great Loop and were thrilled to experience this unique destination. When I stepped off the boat our first full day, I missed the dock and landed with a crack. I had fractured my wrist.

Immediately, I knew it was broken and called out to Jen. A local waterman who was monitoring his crab tanks next door heard the commotion and came over to help. After getting up to speed, he immediately went to the bakery to get help.

Wondering what I was going to do, we were interrupted by alarms blaring all across the island. I thought, “Oh, wow, they’re taking this very seriously. It’s only a broken wrist!”

Well, the town mobilized, and the resident EMT, who was in her personal attire, dropped her lunch from Bayside Inn and ran over to the bakery. She triaged the injury, putting me in a sling, even as other residents came by calming me and Jen and regaling us of other times this had happened to the locals. We felt like we were welcomed into a part of this Smith Island community.

She said, “I’ve called the Maryland State Patrol and they are sending a helicopter to come get you.” I was shocked, “do I need a helicopter?”, I asked, wondering if my injury was somehow worse than I thought. She said no, I could call it off, but there were no ferries leaving the island for another 12 hours, so I wouldn’t be in a hospital for another 15 hours otherwise. I relented, hoping that we wouldn’t be struck with some insane bill.

They put us in the back of a Ford pickup (their local ambulance) and brought Jen and me to the section of road between Ewell and Rhodes Point, their local “helicopter pad.” We had so many thoughts and emotions running through our minds, mainly logistics around our boat, our dog, and getting help. The town stepped up, and Kathy from the bakery said we could leave Ollie with her and not worry about it, just take care of yourselves.

Shortly after, We were airlifted from Smith Island and took the ferry back the next day. It was a day we will never forget!

Videos of our trip to Smith Island

We hope you visit Smith Island, and get to experience the community (albeit without any broken bones)!